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Explaining Clarity Grades: Beyond The Letters and Numbers

Here is a synopsis of a very useful and informative seminar given by Diane Flora, CGA, which describes the grading techniques used by GIA’s Gem Trade Laboratory for loose diamonds. Flora notes five factors determine a clarity grade: Size, number, position, nature, and relief. No one factor is more important than the other, and each will have different degrees of importance to each diamond, creating altogether the diamond price.

Evaluate its relief and whether it’s eye-visible. If an inclusion is eye-visible it does not automatically mean a stone is graded “Included.” The other five factors are considered. An IF diamond can have no inclusions and only insignificant blemishes under 10X magnification. If a pinpoint is visible through the pavilion, the diamond usually receives a VVS1, unless the pinpoint is visible through the crowns, and it receives a VVS2. When an inclusion is larger than a minute, the clarity grade can typically go no higher than VS1. Below VS1, combinations of factors set the grade.

GIA graders often use a technique known as wet grading. Using a wet sponge or brush, with a little soap added, wipe the surface of the diamond to eliminate dust and surface reflections. The soap is needed because plain water beads up on diamonds. After the initial face-up impression of the clarity grade, you check the condition of the culet by looking through the table. A chipped culet prevents a diamond from obtaining an IF grade, because chips are considered inclusions, even though they can sometimes be polished away. The stone has then held the table to the culet and mentally divided into eight wedges or sections. Each wedge consists of one main pavilion and two lower girdle facets, the girdle in the same area, two upper girdle facets, a bezel and a star facet. The diamond is turned until the grader examines all eight wedges. Higher magnification locates and identifies inclusions, but if it’s not visible at 10-power, it is not a factor in grading. The grader then holds the diamond girdle to girdle, with the pavilion side up, examining it in profile to check the culet. This is to check for any damage or pinpoint inclusions that may have been missed in the initial observations. The diamond is then observed face up to ten power and given a clarity grade. Then it’s checked, also face up, with a 10-powerfully corrected loupe and overall light source. If there are visible inclusions, the grader needs to check the diamond with the unaided eye. Eye-visibility does not set the grade but it can impact the final call making, for example, the 2 carat diamond ring you love look less sparkling.

The Gem Trade Lab can report a diamond as “potential” or “improbable.” A “potential” diamond can be recut to IF without reducing it below a critical weight. For “improbable,” GTL must determine that the clarity grade can be improved, also without recutting it below a critical weight.

Take these clarity tips for loose diamonds into notice and allow yourself to buy a diamond which is eye-

clean to make that princess cut engagement ring or cushion cut engagement ring sparkle their best.

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