Diamonds are often described as having a "normal" or "regular" shape, which is why the brilliant cut is so popular. Diamonds are cut in brilliant shapes in a majority of cases (no less than 95 percent). The fact that it is the ideal form for the brilliance of the diamond in its current form is not surprising in and of itself.
The history of the brilliant is, in fact, extraordinarily long. The double pyramid is the first form, and it serves as the prototype for the brilliant. This shape is also referred to as an octahedron. The top section of the cut is flattened, resulting in a diamond with four facets on top and four facets on the bottom. Then someone had the brilliant idea of grinding the sharp corners away, resulting in a rounder overall shape for the diamond.
Every now and then, the brilliant was tweaked to make it even better, but real development took time. This was the case until 1919, when the diamond cutter Tolkowsky laid the groundwork for the modern brilliant cut. As a result of this development, the brilliant has taken on its current form and has become known as the "Scandinavian standard Brilliant" in the United States.
The following is the procedure for creating a brilliant cut diamond:
1. The rough diamond is divided into two pieces, one large and one small, by cutting it in half. Previously, this was accomplished through the use of a saw, but nowadays it is more frequently accomplished through the use of a laser.
2. The large diamond is inserted into the cutting machine (which is similar to a turntable) and clamped between two pins to be cut. As soon as the machine begins to rotate, the diamond is rounded off by means of another diamond that has been placed in a container and is rotating with it. During the grinding process, the small diamond presses against the large diamond in the container.
3. After the first grinding, the diamond has taken on the shape of a cone and is pressed into a collet to complete the process. Following that, the collet is screwed into the grinding rod, and the grinding process can begin in earnest.
The first facets of the diamond are about to be cut into the stone. The diamond is held against a cast iron disc that has been greased with olive oil and diamond powder and rotates at a rate of approximately 3500 revolutions per minute. Eight facets are grinded into the upper and lower portions of the diamond slowly and methodically. The first eight facets of a diamond are particularly important, as they are the most visible. They must be at right angles to one another because the brilliance and shimmer of the diamond are determined by the angles of the facets. Following the first eight facets, a further eight facets are placed on the sharp corners to complete the design. When the sixteen facets are completed, the pavilions (the lower facets) and bezels (the upper facets) of the diamond are ground even further to achieve the final shape of the diamond. Brillianteering is the term used to describe this intricate diamond cutting.
The girdle of a diamond is the portion of the diamond that is the widest. The distance between the bottom and the top of the diamond is represented by this symbol. Each facet has two facets against the girdle and the top, in addition to the girdle and the top. Each facet of the diamond is given an additional pair of facets at the bottom of the diamond. It is customary to place eight stars at the girdle and the table (the top of the diamond).
The brilliant project is now complete! The brilliant diamonds have a total of 57 facets, with 33 facets on the top (including the table) and 24 facets on the bottom.
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