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The Complete Guide to Asscher Cut Engagement Rings

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Richard Burton unveiled the Krupp Diamond as a decadent gift to Elizabeth Taylor aboard a yacht on the River Thames in London in 1968. It was a colorless 33.19-carat diamond he bought at an auction for $307,000 (though its value has since risen to more than $9 million). It's one of the most famous diamonds in gemology history. However, there is one detail you may not be aware of: it was an Asscher-cut diamond.

What Exactly Is the Asscher Cut?

A square-shaped diamond with deeply trimmed edges is known as an Asscher-cut diamond. Asscher cuts have a high crown and large step facets that radiate shine.

The Asscher cut is similar to the Emerald cut, but it is square. The larger step facets, smaller table, and higher crown give the stone more weight, making this cut unique. The diamond's corners are cropped to give it a unique appearance.

Pros and Cons of Asscher Cut Engagement Rings

If you want a one-of-a-kind engagement ring with a vintage feel, an Asscher cut diamond is the way to go. The diamond's one-of-a-kindness will undoubtedly attract attention. Because there are no sharp edges on this cut, it is less likely to break. While this ring is fit for royalty—or at least Hollywood royalty—it is not without cost. Asscher cut diamond rings are on the more expensive side of engagement rings, so they are definitely an investment piece.

Another thing to keep in mind when looking for your ring is that the Asscher isn't as shiny as other popular cuts. Keep in mind that, while these stones do refract light to create color (or, as we say, 'have a lot of fire'), they aren't as sparkly as round brilliant stones.

What to Look for in an Asscher Cut Diamond

  • What setting styles complement this stone shape the best?

    You'll probably want open-prong settings, which don't hide the complexities of the cut and allow more light to enter the diamond. A four-prong setting, for example, would be appropriate. If you want to add more glitz, a pave or halo setting could be ideal.

  • Where should I go to find this kind of ring?

    This type of ring can be found at estate sales or vintage jewelry auctions. Going vintage for an Asscher cut is your best bet because finding a well-cut Asscher cut diamond is difficult and expensive.

  • What is the most crucial aspect of an Asscher cut?

    Because of the open facets, asscher cuts are more likely to expose inclusions (blemishes) and unwanted color, so finding a seasoned jeweler who works with superior diamonds is essential. Furthermore, a shallower depth (between 60% and 68%) is preferable for Asscher cuts; the shallower the depth, the larger the diamond will appear.

How to Look After Your Asscher Cut Diamond

Once you've decided on an Asscher cut diamond (congrats! ), you'll want to keep it in good condition. I would treat your Asscher cut ring as I would any other diamond piece. The Gemology Institute of America suggests cleaning diamonds with "lint-free cloths, commercial jewelry cleaning solutions, and household detergents, avoiding abrasive household cleaners, ultrasonic cleaners, and steam cleaners."

The Asscher Cut's History

Joseph Isaac Asscher, who founded the IJ Asscher company in Holland, which was later renamed the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, invented this intricate cut in the early 1900s. The company is still in operation today, and its history includes other legendary diamonds such as The Cullinan Diamond and The Excelsior Diamond.

Bonus!

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