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Summer 2001

The spring shows revealed jewelry fashions that were lighter versions of trends popular during the stronger economy last year. With buying steady by slower than in past years, jewelry designers opted to offer buyers lower-priced and slimmed-down jewelry.

While jewelry is lighter, with effective use of negative space, cut-outs and laticework, design motifs are trending toward less ornate, more geometric lines and classic styles.

For diamonds, that has meant and increase in the simple lines of square stones, especially emerald and princess cuts, in fashion jewelry. Aaron Basha, for example, offered a large luxury look in a grid-like cocktail ring boasting rows of emerald cut diamonds.

Watch manufacturers are also showing more emerald cuts in their diamonds watches for a more subtle sparkle in a less extravagant economy.

The economic uncertainty with the United States has also has meant the continuation of pave jewelry, but used less extensively than in the past few years. John Hardy put scaled down diamond pave designs under rock crystal for an amplified look of diamonds at a lower pricepoint, for example. Makur design, meanwhile, was also more sparing in its use of diamonds, creating a two-tone effect on necklaces with alternating yellow gold and diamond pave sections.

Designers continue to favor brown diamonds in designs, while black diamonds–a hot trend last year–are not receiving as much attention. Brown diamond designs are being led by Italian designers like Damiani and Alfieri and St. John, who use the stones as both pave accents and in small princess cut varieties. Though most design is favoring inexpensive fancy color sapphires–yellow and pink, over similarly colored diamonds, several firms, like Bergio, showed yellow and pink diamonds in small sizes and paired with pearls in similar colors.

Line bracelet styles remain a strong favorite, with variations on the traditional tennis bracelets doing well. Princess cut diamonds (in various spinoffs of the line bracelet) are a favorite in this category as well, manufacturers report.

Classic styles like hearts, stars and butterflies are very popular this year. They are often set with diamond pave

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