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Feb. 2002

With few exceptions, VicenzaOro I, the global jewelry industry’s barometer of fashion and design for the coming year, offered little news in diamond jewelry.

The main theme of the fair, and the mindset of the world’s leading designers seemed to be, “more of the same.”

Brown diamonds—call them champagne, chocolate or cognac—remain a hot ticket. According to Italian design companies, the look of brown diamonds—most often pave or very small cuts set in multiples—is still a top seller in the European market and continues to gain ground in the United States.

Black diamonds, meanwhile, seem to have faded from their short-lived glory of the past several seasons, with a few exceptions in which black diamond pave serves as a contrast to brightly hued colored gemstones.

Restraint in Pave

The Italians, known widely for favoring pave as their diamond accessory of choice, limited this look this year—reserving it for accent elements, rather than fully encrusting gold pieces with the glittering gems.

For the dazzle of diamonds with the lower price points being demanded by consumers and, therefore, retailers, designers are utilizing movement. Small diamonds set in free-falling drop earrings, for example, move with a woman’s head to capture light.

Trends in Cut

One noticeable new trend in diamonds jewelry design emerging from Vicenza was the return of the marquise cut, which was seen among the designs of several leading designers. Generally, however, the favorite cuts remain in the more geometric category—led by princess-cut stones.

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